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Jeff asked i have a kenmore washer dryer combo 220volt model#41799570110 the dryer stopped in the middle of drying clothe?
clothes were very hot any help please
And got the following answer:
If it doesn't reset itself in an hour then you may have a blown "Fusible Link". It's a fuse that is designed to protect against over current AND over temperature. But there are thermal switches that are supposed to cut out the heater in the case of no air flow. It prevents the dryer from burning itself out. Check to make sure your vent pipes are clear and not kinked. Often people push the dryer against the wall a little too much and that pinches off the air flow. The dryer overheats and shuts down. I had a dryer shut down like that once. It was the fusible link. That doesn't reset itself, so it has to be replaced. Here are some VERY IMPORTANT NOTES: Check the breaker first. If the breaker has kicked off, try resetting it. If it kicks back off right away DON'T TRY TO RESET IT AGAIN. You have a serious electrical problem. If the breaker is still on - good. Now; UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE TO IT. Now that you're safe from electrocuting yourself, get an ohm meter and check the fusible link. It's usually a plastic looking thing, but who knows for sure. Pull the wires off of it and use the meter to see if it is good. If it is bad replace it. If it is good, you have other problems. The way the dryer controls the temperature, whether "Air Dry", "Low" or "High", there are thermal switches (at least two of them, but there may be three) near where the dryer vent connects. WITH EVERYTHING COOL TO THE TOUCH, check them for continuity the same way you checked the fusible link. They ALL should be good. By "Good" I mean you should get continuity through them. There should also be another thermal switch located on the heater coil box (assuming your coils are mounted on the back side of the machine). Some coils are mounted inside, next to the drum, and they are harder to replace because you have to remove the drum to get to them. Nevertheless, there should be a thermal switch on that as well. Its job is to sense the heat of the coils. If they get too hot the switch is supposed to open up and shut off power to the coils only. The dryer should be capable of continuing to run. When the switch cools off the power comes back on automatically. If all switches and fusible link are good then you may have a problem with the timer control. Cheaper models use a cam and timer motor to run the programs. Those cam switches wear out. Since I don't know of any GOOD way of checking that part of it - if this were my problem I'd call a professional to look at it. They know more about it than me. I'm not a small appliance mechanic, but I DO fix most of my own appliances when I can. AGAIN, AS A SAFETY WARNING - UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE YOU OPEN THE BACK. If for any reason you need to plug it in for testing, make sure someone is there to quickly pull the plug and dial 911 in the event you shock yourself into unconsciousness (or death). REALLY! I'M NOT KIDDING. 240 volts is dangerous. Don't take foolish chances. Best of luck with your project. '')