geared rotary limit switch

ANY Timer Switch
Rated 4.5/5 based on :11286 User Reviews

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uvachief asked What are some basic performance modifications to make to a 1986 Porsche 944 base coupe?

I am in the process of restoring a 1986 Porsche 944 base coupe. The original engine produced 150 bhp. There isn't enough room under the hood to put in a turbo charger without changing the actual hood (at least there doesn't appear to be enough room). I was thinking of making the following modifications to improve horsepower and torque. 1. Add a Bursch Tuned Exhaust System - Piping and Muffler is $295. I can also add headers for an additional cost. I could also add a catalytic replacement but that would limit my resale ability as it would violate emission standards in some states. 2. Add an after market cold air intake system (if I could find a kit). I haven't had a lot of success finding an after-markt cold air intake kit from K&N or Injen, etc. Also, is there enough room under the hood for it? 3. Add an ECU upgrade such as a chip from Autothority. My goal is to increase horsepower from 150 bhp to 190 bhp or a 20% increase. Recommendations? Suggestions? Open to ideas. Not looking to build a street racer. Just want to be able to beat a 2010 Honda Accord or Toyota Camry V6 off the line at a toll booth or stop light. The original 86 944 base coupe hit 0-60 in about 8.3 to 9.0 seconds depending on what you believe. Will increasing horsepower allow a 10% reduction in time to sub 8 seconds?

And got the following answer:

Those are all good ideas. Don't worry about the catalytic converter switch being in violation of standards in some states, because no state prevents you from substituting catalytic converters. Inspectors would not have the expertise to even be able to tell. (correction: I just checked California law, and the difference is that they require an inspection probe point after the convertor. If your after market convertor does not have this port, it will be failed. So if it comes without one, you will have to add a port if you want to pass inspection in CA.) In general, turbo and super charging is not a good idea on an engine that is not designed for it, because the compression ratio is too high. But all these other ideas will help. Basically you want a richer mixture and more advanced timing, because in the 80s they were badly restraining both in order to meet pollution standards. There are only a few things I can add. One is that you can also buy a more advanced camshaft, but you will pay for the extra horsepower with a more blubbery idle, and shorter valve life. Another is that you can manually increase the fuel pressure setting. The fuel pressure regulator is vacuum operated and on the end of the circuit. If you remove the vacuum hose, you insert an allen wrench into the hose fitting, and can tweak a half turn or so, and can easily be tweaked the other way for DEQ inspections. but you need to use a pressure gauge when you do this. You can also advance the ignition timing until you start to hear piston rattle from pre-ignition when accelerating hard in 2nd gear, and then back off a bit. Then there are also some other adjustments built in. Here is something I found: { ... 13.9 Aside from chips, is there any adjustment I can make to my car's DME? There is a provision on the Motronic cars (944 and 911) to make small adjustments to the fuel mixture (injection pulsewidth) and the ignition timing in order to compensate for the quality of fuel available in your particular country or region. There is an board-mounted eight-position rotary switch accessed through the little hole in the back side of the DME box. These adjustments can be made without opening the cover of the DME box, unless you have a California vehicle, which will probably have a metal plug over the hole instead of a plastic fitting. The switch has a triangular-shaped recess in which to insert a special adjustment tool — I just whittle down a golf tee to make mine. The switch has detent positions so you can count the clicks to tell where you are set. All the DME boxes I’ve ever seen have been set on position #1, so I call that the stock position. Position 1 is fully counterclockwise, position 2 is the next position turning clockwise. The adjustments can be found in the following table: switch position fuel mixture adjustment ignition timing adjustment stock 0 0 2 +3% 0 3 +6% 0 4 -3% 0 5 0 -3 degrees 6 +3% -3 degrees 7 +6% -3 degrees 8 -3% -3 degrees This information is from a Bosch service center bulletin that was distributed by Porsche. The figures are not exact due to the fact that the timing delay is done on silicon rather than being an actual timing calculation. The variance between will cover the figures quoted. The advance or retard adjustment for each switch is thus pretty correct. ... } But I am not at all happy someone gave me a bad rating. If it was someone suggesting you get rid of the car you got and get a turbo, that is really a terrible suggestion. First of all, people have the car they have, and no one is going to switch cars because someone on the internet wants them to. And the second is that a turbo is a bad idea. Turbos are not reliable cars or easy to work on. And while they are slightly beefed up, that is not the main point. The main reason you can't retrofit turbo is that the compression ratio needs to be detuned from 10:1 to 8:1 for a turbo to not blow up the engine. Makes one want to stop bothering to answer at all.


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